淡水浴!!??
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轉載http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/detail.aspx?aid=3309&cid=3790&search=
By Scott Michael對淡水浴的一些見解,原則上淡水浴可以藉著滲透壓的變化殺死一些體表上的單胞蟲
但Scott也指出有些種類的海水白點蟲(ICK)可以在淡水中存活18小時之久,另外對於有些已經深入體表層的寄生蟲也無法藉淡水浴殺死,關於白點蟲的討論板上已經多到不行,小弟建議還是要設個檢疫缸,用個簡單的塑膠箱或水桶都可以
Q: Help! I have been told by two different so-called experts that giving a newly introduced fish a "freshwater bath" is the best way to prevent possible parasites from entering my tank. This is assuming that, like myself, one doesn';t have an extra tank or a "hospital" tank and cannot medicate the existing tank if needed because the tank contains live rock. I was also told that most fish are already stressed from transporting, and they would be stressed even further if they were given a freshwater bath.
I have found very little inform ation on this topic. Some say to use tap water that is dechlorinated, and make sure the pH and temperature are exactly the same as the display tank. Then bathe the fish for approximately five to 10 minutes and, if the fish looks stressed, add it to the tank immediately. Is this correct or not? Also does this pertain to certain invertebrates (e.g., crabs and shrimp)?
I know it';s important to always check very carefully for good color, nice structure and make sure the fish is eating well before purchasing it, but this doesn';t always mean the fish being bought is parasite-free! Please help me clear up this issue.
A: I think the freshwater bath can be helpful in eradicating some marine fish parasites, but it will not prevent all parasites from entering your tank. It works by exposing the single-celled parasites to a markedly different salinity. The osmotic gradient that exists between the parasite';s internal environment and its surroundings results in water diffusing into their bodies. This can cause some protozoans to burst like an overfilled balloon!
Unfortunately, the freshwater bath is not 100-percent effective at eliminating all the parasites on a fish. For example, those parasites that are deeply imbedded in the fish';s mucus, skin or gills will be unaffected by the bath. Some parasites, like saltwater ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) and coral reef disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum), may enter their host';s internal organs as well, and are thus unaffected by a freshwater bath.
Studies have shown that Cryptocaryon cysts, which are known as trophonts, can withstand short-term exposure to low salinities. In fact, they can survive in freshwater for up to 18 hours. Other parasites, though not destroyed when a fish is immersed in freshwater, will drop off their hosts. For example, those Amyloodinium cysts not deep in their host';s mucus are dislodged when a fish is placed in freshwater.
Although I have not given a crustacean a freshwater bath, this treatment can be used to rid ailing corals, mushroom anemones and clams of parasites. Simply use the same procedure described below, but only immerse the invertebrate in freshwater for 10 to 5 seconds. Stony corals and clams can tolerate baths lasting as long as one minute.
Administering a freshwater bath is very easy. Just place the fish in a bucket (which is designated for aquarium use only) that contains dechlorinated tap water, or reverse osmosis water, making sure it';s the same temperature and pH as the aquarium water that the fish is being placed into. Leave the fish in the bucket for two to eight minutes, but watch it carefully, removing it and placing it in the tank if it seems extremely distressed (e.g., swims about the bucket erratically, lays on its side, attempts to jump out of the bucket). Some species are more sensitive to being exposed to a freshwater bath than others. For example, wrasses of the genus Pseudocheilinus and mandarin dragonets should not be dipped.
The freshwater in the bucket may contain parasites that have dropped off, so try not to transfer water from the bucket into the tank. The best way to avoid this is to quickly lift the fish out of the bucket and into the aquarium with a soft fish net.
Although freshwater baths can be used to strip a fish of some of its parasitic load, the best way to ensure that a fish is healthy before placing it into your display tank is to quarantine it. I have had numerous people tell me that they could not afford a quarantine tank, only to end up losing an entire tank of fish (that were worth much more than a quarantine setup) to a virulent parasite! In my mind a quarantine tank is as important to successful marine fishkeeping as a hydrometer! By quarantining your fish you will have the opportunity to observe and medicate them appropriately, before they are introduced to the display aquarium.
All you need is a 10-gallon tank, a light, a heater, a thermometer, an air pump, an airstone and some saltwater. If you are quarantining larger, more active fish species then you may need a 30-gallon tank. You can use a sponge filter, hang-on-the-back filter or canister filter filled with a plastic filter media (no crushed coral or carbon should be placed in these filters) for biological filtration, but this not essential if you do not overfeed the tank and do frequent partial water changes.
If you use a filter, it is essential that after the quarantine period is completed you sterilize the filter and filter media before using it again. To do this, soak the sponge filter, media or the inside of the filter in a mild chlorine solution ( 2-percent chlorine, the rest tap water) for 24 to 48 hours, and then rinse it repeatedly with freshwater until the chlorine smell is gone. To ensure that all the chlorine has been reduced, throw the sponge or filter media in a bucket of freshwater, or place some water in a hang-on-the-back or canister filter and add chlorine remover.
If you are not using an established biological filter, you can just add an air source (e.g., airstone) and do frequent water exchanges (every third day change about 10 to 15 percent of the water) to prevent the buildup of nitrogenous waster products. Although you need to make sure your fish is properly fed during the quarantine period, it is important not to overfeed. Remove any uneaten foods from the aquarium immediately.
The quarantine tank should also have plenty of hiding places so that the fish feel secure and are less stressed. Plastic flowerpots with a hole cut in one side and a rock set on top (to weigh them down) work great, as do sections of PVC pipe. Stay away from hard coral skeletons and any calcium carbonate substrates (e.g., crushed coral) because they pull some medications out of solution and are more difficult to disinfect.
Your quarantine aquarium should not be set up near your display tank, because parasites can be spread more easily, and it should have its own set of utensils (e.g., net, thermometer, scrubber pad). The reason for having separate equipment is to prevent the transfer of parasites from the quarantine to the display aquarium. It also possible to transmit pathogens from the quarantine to display aquarium on your hands. To prevent this from occurring, vigorously wash your hands after working in the quarantine tank.
Between each quarantine period all utensils, decor and the aquarium should be disinfected. Fill the aquarium full of water, place the utensils and decor in the aquarium, add a small amount of chlorine and let it set for 24 hours. Then remove the water and rinse the aquarium and accessories thoroughly and soak them in tap water with added chlorine remover.
As far as the quarantine procedure is concerned, I would recommend keeping your fish in quarantine for at least three weeks. It is important to observe them carefully during this period and to promptly treat them if a problem arises. If treatment is necessary, make sure you leave them in quarantine at least 10 days after it is completed to ensure that they have fully recovered. As one last precaution, it is not a bad idea to give your fish a freshwater bath before moving it from the quarantine to the display aquarium.
One important rule when quarantining is that a fish must go through the entire three-week process without being exposed to any other fish. If a new fish is added to the tank while another specimen is still being quarantined, you should start the whole three-week process over again.
In summary, the freshwater bath is an effective treatment for helping rid your fish of some parasites. However, it does not take the place of quarantining your fish.
By Scott Michael對淡水浴的一些見解,原則上淡水浴可以藉著滲透壓的變化殺死一些體表上的單胞蟲
但Scott也指出有些種類的海水白點蟲(ICK)可以在淡水中存活18小時之久,另外對於有些已經深入體表層的寄生蟲也無法藉淡水浴殺死,關於白點蟲的討論板上已經多到不行,小弟建議還是要設個檢疫缸,用個簡單的塑膠箱或水桶都可以
Q: Help! I have been told by two different so-called experts that giving a newly introduced fish a "freshwater bath" is the best way to prevent possible parasites from entering my tank. This is assuming that, like myself, one doesn';t have an extra tank or a "hospital" tank and cannot medicate the existing tank if needed because the tank contains live rock. I was also told that most fish are already stressed from transporting, and they would be stressed even further if they were given a freshwater bath.
I have found very little inform ation on this topic. Some say to use tap water that is dechlorinated, and make sure the pH and temperature are exactly the same as the display tank. Then bathe the fish for approximately five to 10 minutes and, if the fish looks stressed, add it to the tank immediately. Is this correct or not? Also does this pertain to certain invertebrates (e.g., crabs and shrimp)?
I know it';s important to always check very carefully for good color, nice structure and make sure the fish is eating well before purchasing it, but this doesn';t always mean the fish being bought is parasite-free! Please help me clear up this issue.
A: I think the freshwater bath can be helpful in eradicating some marine fish parasites, but it will not prevent all parasites from entering your tank. It works by exposing the single-celled parasites to a markedly different salinity. The osmotic gradient that exists between the parasite';s internal environment and its surroundings results in water diffusing into their bodies. This can cause some protozoans to burst like an overfilled balloon!
Unfortunately, the freshwater bath is not 100-percent effective at eliminating all the parasites on a fish. For example, those parasites that are deeply imbedded in the fish';s mucus, skin or gills will be unaffected by the bath. Some parasites, like saltwater ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) and coral reef disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum), may enter their host';s internal organs as well, and are thus unaffected by a freshwater bath.
Studies have shown that Cryptocaryon cysts, which are known as trophonts, can withstand short-term exposure to low salinities. In fact, they can survive in freshwater for up to 18 hours. Other parasites, though not destroyed when a fish is immersed in freshwater, will drop off their hosts. For example, those Amyloodinium cysts not deep in their host';s mucus are dislodged when a fish is placed in freshwater.
Although I have not given a crustacean a freshwater bath, this treatment can be used to rid ailing corals, mushroom anemones and clams of parasites. Simply use the same procedure described below, but only immerse the invertebrate in freshwater for 10 to 5 seconds. Stony corals and clams can tolerate baths lasting as long as one minute.
Administering a freshwater bath is very easy. Just place the fish in a bucket (which is designated for aquarium use only) that contains dechlorinated tap water, or reverse osmosis water, making sure it';s the same temperature and pH as the aquarium water that the fish is being placed into. Leave the fish in the bucket for two to eight minutes, but watch it carefully, removing it and placing it in the tank if it seems extremely distressed (e.g., swims about the bucket erratically, lays on its side, attempts to jump out of the bucket). Some species are more sensitive to being exposed to a freshwater bath than others. For example, wrasses of the genus Pseudocheilinus and mandarin dragonets should not be dipped.
The freshwater in the bucket may contain parasites that have dropped off, so try not to transfer water from the bucket into the tank. The best way to avoid this is to quickly lift the fish out of the bucket and into the aquarium with a soft fish net.
Although freshwater baths can be used to strip a fish of some of its parasitic load, the best way to ensure that a fish is healthy before placing it into your display tank is to quarantine it. I have had numerous people tell me that they could not afford a quarantine tank, only to end up losing an entire tank of fish (that were worth much more than a quarantine setup) to a virulent parasite! In my mind a quarantine tank is as important to successful marine fishkeeping as a hydrometer! By quarantining your fish you will have the opportunity to observe and medicate them appropriately, before they are introduced to the display aquarium.
All you need is a 10-gallon tank, a light, a heater, a thermometer, an air pump, an airstone and some saltwater. If you are quarantining larger, more active fish species then you may need a 30-gallon tank. You can use a sponge filter, hang-on-the-back filter or canister filter filled with a plastic filter media (no crushed coral or carbon should be placed in these filters) for biological filtration, but this not essential if you do not overfeed the tank and do frequent partial water changes.
If you use a filter, it is essential that after the quarantine period is completed you sterilize the filter and filter media before using it again. To do this, soak the sponge filter, media or the inside of the filter in a mild chlorine solution ( 2-percent chlorine, the rest tap water) for 24 to 48 hours, and then rinse it repeatedly with freshwater until the chlorine smell is gone. To ensure that all the chlorine has been reduced, throw the sponge or filter media in a bucket of freshwater, or place some water in a hang-on-the-back or canister filter and add chlorine remover.
If you are not using an established biological filter, you can just add an air source (e.g., airstone) and do frequent water exchanges (every third day change about 10 to 15 percent of the water) to prevent the buildup of nitrogenous waster products. Although you need to make sure your fish is properly fed during the quarantine period, it is important not to overfeed. Remove any uneaten foods from the aquarium immediately.
The quarantine tank should also have plenty of hiding places so that the fish feel secure and are less stressed. Plastic flowerpots with a hole cut in one side and a rock set on top (to weigh them down) work great, as do sections of PVC pipe. Stay away from hard coral skeletons and any calcium carbonate substrates (e.g., crushed coral) because they pull some medications out of solution and are more difficult to disinfect.
Your quarantine aquarium should not be set up near your display tank, because parasites can be spread more easily, and it should have its own set of utensils (e.g., net, thermometer, scrubber pad). The reason for having separate equipment is to prevent the transfer of parasites from the quarantine to the display aquarium. It also possible to transmit pathogens from the quarantine to display aquarium on your hands. To prevent this from occurring, vigorously wash your hands after working in the quarantine tank.
Between each quarantine period all utensils, decor and the aquarium should be disinfected. Fill the aquarium full of water, place the utensils and decor in the aquarium, add a small amount of chlorine and let it set for 24 hours. Then remove the water and rinse the aquarium and accessories thoroughly and soak them in tap water with added chlorine remover.
As far as the quarantine procedure is concerned, I would recommend keeping your fish in quarantine for at least three weeks. It is important to observe them carefully during this period and to promptly treat them if a problem arises. If treatment is necessary, make sure you leave them in quarantine at least 10 days after it is completed to ensure that they have fully recovered. As one last precaution, it is not a bad idea to give your fish a freshwater bath before moving it from the quarantine to the display aquarium.
One important rule when quarantining is that a fish must go through the entire three-week process without being exposed to any other fish. If a new fish is added to the tank while another specimen is still being quarantined, you should start the whole three-week process over again.
In summary, the freshwater bath is an effective treatment for helping rid your fish of some parasites. However, it does not take the place of quarantining your fish.
[這篇文章最後由ivewu在 2007/07/26 08:13pm 第 1 次編輯]
做淡水浴的自來水要已經加過水質穩定劑，並已經曝氣二天，又有打過氣的自來水!
我都是取2公升淡水裝在桶子裡，然後新買回來的魚就撈出來，直接丟進去桶子裡~
5公分以下的魚隻做3分鐘、5公分以上的魚做5分鐘的淡水浴，這個過程人要在旁邊看，有的魚會掛了，我是沒弄掛過魚~ 反正就是看魚的狀況，所以時間也不同，我的天狗倒吊(8cm)昨天做了10分鐘的淡水浴，竟然連白點蟲都掉下來，真的很誇張~
做完淡水浴的魚，就直接丟到檢疫缸做檢疫了~ 我通常在結束六天的檢疫過程後，還會再做一次淡水浴再進主缸!
說一下我的淡水浴做法~
做淡水浴的自來水要已經加過水質穩定劑，並已經曝氣二天，又有打過氣的自來水!
我都是取2公升淡水裝在桶子裡，然後新買回來的魚就撈出來，直接丟進去桶子裡~
5公分以下的魚隻做3分鐘、5公分以上的魚做5分鐘的淡水浴，這個過程人要在旁邊看，有的魚會掛了，我是沒弄掛過魚~ 反正就是看魚的狀況，所以時間也不同，我的天狗倒吊(8cm)昨天做了10分鐘的淡水浴，竟然連白點蟲都掉下來，真的很誇張~
做完淡水浴的魚，就直接丟到檢疫缸做檢疫了~ 我通常在結束六天的檢疫過程後，還會再做一次淡水浴再進主缸!
