Daniel Chang
🏆🏅🏅🏅
- 金幣
- 10
http://www.reefcorner.com/Manual/sps_coloration.htm
作者的經驗 竟跟比重 也有些關係
作者的經驗 竟跟比重 也有些關係
Daniel Chang
🏆🏅🏅🏅
- 金幣
- 10
建議熱心在做實驗的魚友 能把比重、HQI的K數及W數(LUX)、SPS擺設深度 都能考慮進來
小弟看過一些實驗相片:: 就算是10000K 與 11000K 也能照出不同色的SPS 會有藍與紫紅的差別
小弟看過一些實驗相片:: 就算是10000K 與 11000K 也能照出不同色的SPS 會有藍與紫紅的差別
真是篇好文章啊!有興趣的一定要看原文,我把摘要翻一下,有興趣的也可試試
1.KH值請調到10~12(某些軟珊瑚與LPS會受不了)
2.光線要足夠,每gallon 8~12瓦,約每4L 8~12瓦(很多珊瑚會受不了)
3.光譜中的藍光要夠,最好用10000k左右的HQI再加藍燈,藍燈挑一寫有紫外線光譜的牌子
4.鈣含量要夠,要450~500(能有鈣反,KH和Ca會比較好調)
5.鹽度調到1.025
6.溫度調到26~28
以上條件有助於表現SPS最棒的顏色!
我是覺得KH,鈣,足夠的光和適當的溫度就能讓SPS長得很好,但要長得漂亮,光譜占了蠻大的成份(我一直覺得是那UV部份的光譜啦!希望有網友能測測自然下SPS生長環境的光譜和我們水族的光譜有沒有很大的差異)
1.KH值請調到10~12(某些軟珊瑚與LPS會受不了)
2.光線要足夠,每gallon 8~12瓦,約每4L 8~12瓦(很多珊瑚會受不了)
3.光譜中的藍光要夠,最好用10000k左右的HQI再加藍燈,藍燈挑一寫有紫外線光譜的牌子
4.鈣含量要夠,要450~500(能有鈣反,KH和Ca會比較好調)
5.鹽度調到1.025
6.溫度調到26~28
以上條件有助於表現SPS最棒的顏色!
我是覺得KH,鈣,足夠的光和適當的溫度就能讓SPS長得很好,但要長得漂亮,光譜占了蠻大的成份(我一直覺得是那UV部份的光譜啦!希望有網友能測測自然下SPS生長環境的光譜和我們水族的光譜有沒有很大的差異)
[這個帖子最後由KHU在 2002/05/16 09:53pm 編輯]
1. 沒錯, 突然太強的光會讓許多珊瑚受傷
2. 我用 250W*2, 目前SPS都生長良好, 有一個有趣的現象是轉色的問題, 當初購買來時我將它們放在最上方的SPS 有突然變褐色的現象,不過經過兩三周的 acclimation, 現在慢慢轉回原來的紫色和綠色, 所以我也覺得適應水質一段時間後, proably they will go back to their original coloration
3. 參考一個國外的 SPS繁殖場的設缸資料, 如下, 蠻值得各位SPS硬骨派的大大讀一讀, 除了各位所提到的基本資料, 他們還提到高循環水量(15-30次水量循環) 與營養添加劑, 我現在已經著手研究DIY的SPS用維他命,就好像以前DIY魚飼料一樣, 等缸子穩定後再進更多SPS, 進行試驗公佈配方給大家福利一下
此外, 這珊瑚農場的主人認為浮游物對於SPS 並不重要, 因此硬骨缸並不太需要額外餵浮游生物
We use combinations of different MH lamps alone, or combinations of MH/VHO over holding, grow out, and project tanks. We find Iwasaki MH combined with VHO actinics an aesthetically pleasing combination providing excellent SPS health and growth. Prefered MH combinations are Iwasaki and Radium. If we could only have one MH lamp our choice would be an Iwasaki (new) 400 watter. We feel lighting intensity is probably as important as spectrum.
Our systems are maintained within the following ranges:
Temperature 76-86F
Specific Gravity 1.023-1.030 at 80F
pH 7.8-8.5
dKH 7-18 (dKH of >10 preferred)
Calcium 400-480 ****Maintained with Calcium Reactors and Captive Reef Pure Calcium and occassional KW****
Magnesium 1250-1400
Strontium 10-16ppm (very difficult to test)
Iodine Trace-0.06ppm. **Iodine Pro is added occassionally and all new stony corals are bathed in iodine solution. (>0.06 not recommended.)**
We keep reef safe fish in every tank. We use a variety of nutrient export methods in addition to INTENSE protein skimming to keep Phosphates and Nitrates at levels that can't be measured with hobbyists' test kits. DSBs(deep sand beds) are maintained in every system and are considered absolutely essential for health and vitality of our systems. Optimal DSB depth and grain sizes are controversial. We find a mixed aragonitic bed of 0.5 to 2mm grain at a 2 to 6 inch depth optimal. Water changes are not done on any schedule but water lost in shipping bags is replaced with fresh synthetic sea water. We like Instant Ocean/Reef Crystals/Kent synthetic salts for stony coral propagation and colony holding and grow out systems. Instant Ocean is easier to manipulate than Kent and Reef Crystals which appear to be indentical salts. We run high quality carbon one week per month to maintain crystal clear water. Xanthochromic stains causing yellowing of water can effectively be eliminated via high quality carbon, and/or judicious use of ozone, and occassional use of Captive Reef Redox+. Film algae can be effectively controlled by using 1 Astrae snail per gallon of reef water.
Replacement/make-up fresh water is crucial to success in keeping and farming stony corals. Water is first deinoized via our home system then run through an RO/DI unit. TDS of RO/DI water is maintained at less than 5ppm. We recommend monitoring of RO/DI output to ensure high quality output.
Water current should be 15-30 times tank volume per hour. We accomplish this with opposing powerheads on random timers and continuous central circulation at greater than 10 times system volume per hour. Flow volume and velocity are extremely important. We are experiementing with closed loop circulation systems and have been very pleased so far. We are planning to upgrade all our systems to closed loops once design problems are completely worked out. Flush/surge devices have been discontinued due to air trapping/bubble problems we could never quite fix.
Direct feeding of SPS has been discontinued. In our experience, SPS meet all nutritional demands via appropriate lighting and every other day additions of Vital Gold (amino acids, vitamins, and trace elements). This does not in any way imply SPS cannot benefit, at least indirectly, from zooplanktonic feedings. Feedings of coral "mush" are encouraged ONLY for systems maintaining an active deep sand bed (DSB). We advise adding increasing amounts of foods over a long period of time and reducing the amount of food added if Nitrates become measurable or algaes begin to bloom. Too much too fast can be a disaster.
1. 沒錯, 突然太強的光會讓許多珊瑚受傷
2. 我用 250W*2, 目前SPS都生長良好, 有一個有趣的現象是轉色的問題, 當初購買來時我將它們放在最上方的SPS 有突然變褐色的現象,不過經過兩三周的 acclimation, 現在慢慢轉回原來的紫色和綠色, 所以我也覺得適應水質一段時間後, proably they will go back to their original coloration
3. 參考一個國外的 SPS繁殖場的設缸資料, 如下, 蠻值得各位SPS硬骨派的大大讀一讀, 除了各位所提到的基本資料, 他們還提到高循環水量(15-30次水量循環) 與營養添加劑, 我現在已經著手研究DIY的SPS用維他命,就好像以前DIY魚飼料一樣, 等缸子穩定後再進更多SPS, 進行試驗公佈配方給大家福利一下
此外, 這珊瑚農場的主人認為浮游物對於SPS 並不重要, 因此硬骨缸並不太需要額外餵浮游生物
We use combinations of different MH lamps alone, or combinations of MH/VHO over holding, grow out, and project tanks. We find Iwasaki MH combined with VHO actinics an aesthetically pleasing combination providing excellent SPS health and growth. Prefered MH combinations are Iwasaki and Radium. If we could only have one MH lamp our choice would be an Iwasaki (new) 400 watter. We feel lighting intensity is probably as important as spectrum.
Our systems are maintained within the following ranges:
Temperature 76-86F
Specific Gravity 1.023-1.030 at 80F
pH 7.8-8.5
dKH 7-18 (dKH of >10 preferred)
Calcium 400-480 ****Maintained with Calcium Reactors and Captive Reef Pure Calcium and occassional KW****
Magnesium 1250-1400
Strontium 10-16ppm (very difficult to test)
Iodine Trace-0.06ppm. **Iodine Pro is added occassionally and all new stony corals are bathed in iodine solution. (>0.06 not recommended.)**
We keep reef safe fish in every tank. We use a variety of nutrient export methods in addition to INTENSE protein skimming to keep Phosphates and Nitrates at levels that can't be measured with hobbyists' test kits. DSBs(deep sand beds) are maintained in every system and are considered absolutely essential for health and vitality of our systems. Optimal DSB depth and grain sizes are controversial. We find a mixed aragonitic bed of 0.5 to 2mm grain at a 2 to 6 inch depth optimal. Water changes are not done on any schedule but water lost in shipping bags is replaced with fresh synthetic sea water. We like Instant Ocean/Reef Crystals/Kent synthetic salts for stony coral propagation and colony holding and grow out systems. Instant Ocean is easier to manipulate than Kent and Reef Crystals which appear to be indentical salts. We run high quality carbon one week per month to maintain crystal clear water. Xanthochromic stains causing yellowing of water can effectively be eliminated via high quality carbon, and/or judicious use of ozone, and occassional use of Captive Reef Redox+. Film algae can be effectively controlled by using 1 Astrae snail per gallon of reef water.
Replacement/make-up fresh water is crucial to success in keeping and farming stony corals. Water is first deinoized via our home system then run through an RO/DI unit. TDS of RO/DI water is maintained at less than 5ppm. We recommend monitoring of RO/DI output to ensure high quality output.
Water current should be 15-30 times tank volume per hour. We accomplish this with opposing powerheads on random timers and continuous central circulation at greater than 10 times system volume per hour. Flow volume and velocity are extremely important. We are experiementing with closed loop circulation systems and have been very pleased so far. We are planning to upgrade all our systems to closed loops once design problems are completely worked out. Flush/surge devices have been discontinued due to air trapping/bubble problems we could never quite fix.
Direct feeding of SPS has been discontinued. In our experience, SPS meet all nutritional demands via appropriate lighting and every other day additions of Vital Gold (amino acids, vitamins, and trace elements). This does not in any way imply SPS cannot benefit, at least indirectly, from zooplanktonic feedings. Feedings of coral "mush" are encouraged ONLY for systems maintaining an active deep sand bed (DSB). We advise adding increasing amounts of foods over a long period of time and reducing the amount of food added if Nitrates become measurable or algaes begin to bloom. Too much too fast can be a disaster.
