A
Andrew
訪客
請問, 您如何判斷我的缸裡頭, 有機質過高,是長紅藻呢?
還是綠藻長過多?該如何處理?
My suspicion came from the rough view of your picture, I could be wrong. Seems like you have a dense bottom substrate consists of crushed corals or larger particles. This type of substrate is easily trapping detritus and cause brown algae, green diatom algae and even cyano bacteria bloom. Your display rock does not look live to me. Perhaps you got the so- called base rock and try to make them “Live”?
Currently from viewing your tank picture, the coexistence of the brown and green algae on your glass, substrate, and rock gives me the idea that you probably have excessive organic waste accumulating in your tank or your tank is going through some sort of cycling. The cyano bacteria within the inner layer sand bed is normal as this layer facing the glass do get the constant exposure of excessive lighting (from living room light and natural sun light, etc.). Plus, this layer is the nitrogen reduction zone. How to find out if yuo have exessive organic build up??? In the patch of brown algae on your substrate, use a cleaned chopstick to gently stir the bottom substrate; I think you will see excessive grayish black detritus flying out.
I never got your water level reading. Perhaps you could share them with me. I am specifically interested in your no2, no3, po4 and what type of filtration equipments you have. Been hearing a lot of people I know bitching about the availability of poor quality test kit, so I would like to know what type of test kit you ae using to ensure proper reading.
What can you do if in fact you have high organic waste?? You can use a siphon tube to gently clean the surface of your substrate, do 10% of water change for 10 days as I suggested prior. When doing the change, make sure your temperature, salinity, and pH level are constant with your tank parameter. Hey, is it true that you guys can purchase natural seawater very cheap in Taiwan? If the water is been treated correctly, you might want to use that instead of synthetic sea salt. I would clear out any so- called filter pads you might have in your sump or filter. If they must be there, then clean them on a regular basis.
Use hydrocarbon to assist in this cleaning process. I personally use the carbon 24/7 and change it once every two weeks. However, I have large bio loads so I needed to do this. I have never seen any carbons perform to their claimed capacity. No matter if the brands are Kent, ESV, Seachem or others. To be safe, I would use carbon for no more than two weeks to ensure my water cleanness. Whatever the carbon took out, I can control them by adding them back in. Good things happens slowly in our captive system and bad thing happens fast. I think Mr. Palletta quoted that.
For now, I would suggest you to place proper amount of hydrocarbon in your sump. Change 50% of it every week for a month. In the meantime, control your addition of any additives you have, control feeding of your fish, and I hope you are not doing any other kind of coral feeding. I don’t think you have that much of coral population to do extra feeding. The most important of all is to let the water parameter become stable so do not add any new life in the meantime.
This might sound like a lot of work, in fact, it is a lot of work. But as I stated prior, 10% water change for ten days straight have been proven to have the least disturbance to your current system and the duration of the water change have significant impact on quailty build up. So I would suggest you to do so if you do find my prediction true.
I am a strong advocate of strong skimmer. This would not only create high dissolved oxygen but also help in preventing waste build up. With the substrate you have, I would constantly do surface cleaning and avoid stacking rock against the back wall of the tank to create any dead spots that cannot be reach by siphon tube. I hope I’d help you with your questions. Take care.
還是綠藻長過多?該如何處理?
My suspicion came from the rough view of your picture, I could be wrong. Seems like you have a dense bottom substrate consists of crushed corals or larger particles. This type of substrate is easily trapping detritus and cause brown algae, green diatom algae and even cyano bacteria bloom. Your display rock does not look live to me. Perhaps you got the so- called base rock and try to make them “Live”?
Currently from viewing your tank picture, the coexistence of the brown and green algae on your glass, substrate, and rock gives me the idea that you probably have excessive organic waste accumulating in your tank or your tank is going through some sort of cycling. The cyano bacteria within the inner layer sand bed is normal as this layer facing the glass do get the constant exposure of excessive lighting (from living room light and natural sun light, etc.). Plus, this layer is the nitrogen reduction zone. How to find out if yuo have exessive organic build up??? In the patch of brown algae on your substrate, use a cleaned chopstick to gently stir the bottom substrate; I think you will see excessive grayish black detritus flying out.
I never got your water level reading. Perhaps you could share them with me. I am specifically interested in your no2, no3, po4 and what type of filtration equipments you have. Been hearing a lot of people I know bitching about the availability of poor quality test kit, so I would like to know what type of test kit you ae using to ensure proper reading.
What can you do if in fact you have high organic waste?? You can use a siphon tube to gently clean the surface of your substrate, do 10% of water change for 10 days as I suggested prior. When doing the change, make sure your temperature, salinity, and pH level are constant with your tank parameter. Hey, is it true that you guys can purchase natural seawater very cheap in Taiwan? If the water is been treated correctly, you might want to use that instead of synthetic sea salt. I would clear out any so- called filter pads you might have in your sump or filter. If they must be there, then clean them on a regular basis.
Use hydrocarbon to assist in this cleaning process. I personally use the carbon 24/7 and change it once every two weeks. However, I have large bio loads so I needed to do this. I have never seen any carbons perform to their claimed capacity. No matter if the brands are Kent, ESV, Seachem or others. To be safe, I would use carbon for no more than two weeks to ensure my water cleanness. Whatever the carbon took out, I can control them by adding them back in. Good things happens slowly in our captive system and bad thing happens fast. I think Mr. Palletta quoted that.
For now, I would suggest you to place proper amount of hydrocarbon in your sump. Change 50% of it every week for a month. In the meantime, control your addition of any additives you have, control feeding of your fish, and I hope you are not doing any other kind of coral feeding. I don’t think you have that much of coral population to do extra feeding. The most important of all is to let the water parameter become stable so do not add any new life in the meantime.
This might sound like a lot of work, in fact, it is a lot of work. But as I stated prior, 10% water change for ten days straight have been proven to have the least disturbance to your current system and the duration of the water change have significant impact on quailty build up. So I would suggest you to do so if you do find my prediction true.
I am a strong advocate of strong skimmer. This would not only create high dissolved oxygen but also help in preventing waste build up. With the substrate you have, I would constantly do surface cleaning and avoid stacking rock against the back wall of the tank to create any dead spots that cannot be reach by siphon tube. I hope I’d help you with your questions. Take care.
