taco-allen
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- 金幣
- 33
怎麼越來越歪了...
把樓扶正些⋯不要叫我翻。BTW，以下是Big Ray說的，不是老齊。
first part is to manage the nutrients in water, mainly No3 and PO4 ... it includes :
Zeoliths [stones, they provide surface area for bacteria to grow on]
Zeostart [carbon source, to feed bacteria, so they grow and take up N and P]
Zeobak [the bacteria]
biomate [a different bacteria strain, does not use carbon as much, "eats" detritus, helps with cleaning sand and rock and lowering po4 as result]
ZeoZym [Enzymes, think of it as Steroid for bacteria]
Sponge power [improves growth of sponges, which take up excess bacteria, polish water, and then shed their tissue, which becomes SPS food, great additive]
once your system is stabilized with the above, the corals start to colour up and things will look good. at this point [assuming you have reached ULNS and no algae] you are ready to make your corals even more colourfull, depending on your taste and corals you keep ! following will aid you in doing that :
Xtra [will make corals stronger, makes tissue thicker, improves all colors [darkens corals] , improves Growth by ALOT
it contains AA and vitamines]
Xtra Special [ VERY potent Xtra, for tanks with REALLY pale corals]
CV. [Particle food, brings out the true colour of tissue. improves growth. some corals like pocilopora Really like particle feeding]
AA [AMINO acids, darkens tissue, increase PE]
AA LPS [very potent AA]
now above is to colour up corals, the items below will make corals lighter
B-balance [lightens corals, makes reds and oranges really nice, improves purples.]
Zeospure 2 [makes corals shed their Zoox algae, which in turn means lighter corals, very potent and signature of Zeovit Id say]
I hope the above can help you understand the system more.
so you basically start with controlling nutrients, once under control, you start with 1 color upper every 2-3 weeks, dose, see results, make small adjustments on the dosage to find the sweet spot, then move to the next additive. then after you have that in place, you can skew with colors more via dosing color downers ....
once everything is perfect, yu can look into elements, like Iron, Iodine, floride and so on ....
lastly, testK+ often and dose K-balance if its low. again K-balance will increase K+ [potassium] and K-balance special is potent version.
first part is to manage the nutrients in water, mainly No3 and PO4 ... it includes :
Zeoliths [stones, they provide surface area for bacteria to grow on]
Zeostart [carbon source, to feed bacteria, so they grow and take up N and P]
Zeobak [the bacteria]
biomate [a different bacteria strain, does not use carbon as much, "eats" detritus, helps with cleaning sand and rock and lowering po4 as result]
ZeoZym [Enzymes, think of it as Steroid for bacteria]
Sponge power [improves growth of sponges, which take up excess bacteria, polish water, and then shed their tissue, which becomes SPS food, great additive]
once your system is stabilized with the above, the corals start to colour up and things will look good. at this point [assuming you have reached ULNS and no algae] you are ready to make your corals even more colourfull, depending on your taste and corals you keep ! following will aid you in doing that :
Xtra [will make corals stronger, makes tissue thicker, improves all colors [darkens corals] , improves Growth by ALOT
it contains AA and vitamines]
Xtra Special [ VERY potent Xtra, for tanks with REALLY pale corals]
CV. [Particle food, brings out the true colour of tissue. improves growth. some corals like pocilopora Really like particle feeding]
AA [AMINO acids, darkens tissue, increase PE]
AA LPS [very potent AA]
now above is to colour up corals, the items below will make corals lighter
B-balance [lightens corals, makes reds and oranges really nice, improves purples.]
Zeospure 2 [makes corals shed their Zoox algae, which in turn means lighter corals, very potent and signature of Zeovit Id say]
I hope the above can help you understand the system more.
so you basically start with controlling nutrients, once under control, you start with 1 color upper every 2-3 weeks, dose, see results, make small adjustments on the dosage to find the sweet spot, then move to the next additive. then after you have that in place, you can skew with colors more via dosing color downers ....
once everything is perfect, yu can look into elements, like Iron, Iodine, floride and so on ....
lastly, testK+ often and dose K-balance if its low. again K-balance will increase K+ [potassium] and K-balance special is potent version.
There is a new article about Coral Snow @ reefbuilders :
http://reefbuilders.com/2013/10/07/zeovit-coral-snow-awesome/
http://reefbuilders.com/2013/10/07/zeovit-coral-snow-awesome/
各位先進
小弟使用kz開缸但是出了大問題想尋求解決方法狀況如下
2尺底濾缸(61x40x46)
總水量約140L
A.有蛋白B.沸時桶(ATI 沸石) C.有KZ 活性碳D.影魔奇
10/8開缸
天然海水+2KG活石當天添加BAK+FOOD+START爾後日子按照說明書下藥(參照國外方式,爬文PH8.4才知要加S.P不是FOOD)
10/14 放燈
因為沒買新燈只好先用舊燈R420 60W,14號才放(期間出國窗邊有日照)
10/18放鳥巢
放了2個鳥巢試試
10/20 加活石5KG
因為發現KZ系統要10%的活石所以加了一點活石,可是活石因為用寄的打開時很臭稍為淡水沖洗後就下缸
水變濁了因為又很臭所以換了一桶水,但2天後就清了
10/21加活性碳
因為水太臭而且有生物(2個鳥巢)所以添加活性碳
10/23鳥巢掛
2個鳥巢皮全脫整支變白
10/26放斷支
再加5支小斷支
10/27 NO2爆紅加消化菌
閒閒沒事測一下,一測天阿爆紅,在加新活石前有測是0,想說沒問題不知為什麼會這樣,想說KZ沒用了所以加希爾XX 消化菌停打蛋白
10/30換水
下午再測量NO2一樣爆紅, 一氣之下大換2桶水加上搬出舊濾材(伊罕石英球跟珊瑚骨)
10/31
早上起床還沒刷牙馬上測 NO2已經降了橘黃色橘色很淡了(試管接近黃色)
長篇大論敘述已完畢,以下有幾個疑點待有空的大大指教
1.我是否已經算倒缸
2.是否問題是因為沒使用S.P而使用FOOD
3.有使用沸石桶何來NO2?
4.從10/26~到現在5支小斷支還會發毛(參考之)
5.我的缸壁和活石尤其是活石長了非常非常咖啡色的東西感覺很厚
6.最後NO2有降應該是換水還是舊濾材的原因
7.如果需要砍掉重練該怎麼作
以上
謝謝
小弟使用kz開缸但是出了大問題想尋求解決方法狀況如下
2尺底濾缸(61x40x46)
總水量約140L
A.有蛋白B.沸時桶(ATI 沸石) C.有KZ 活性碳D.影魔奇
10/8開缸
天然海水+2KG活石當天添加BAK+FOOD+START爾後日子按照說明書下藥(參照國外方式,爬文PH8.4才知要加S.P不是FOOD)
10/14 放燈
因為沒買新燈只好先用舊燈R420 60W,14號才放(期間出國窗邊有日照)
10/18放鳥巢
放了2個鳥巢試試
10/20 加活石5KG
因為發現KZ系統要10%的活石所以加了一點活石,可是活石因為用寄的打開時很臭稍為淡水沖洗後就下缸
水變濁了因為又很臭所以換了一桶水,但2天後就清了
10/21加活性碳
因為水太臭而且有生物(2個鳥巢)所以添加活性碳
10/23鳥巢掛
2個鳥巢皮全脫整支變白
10/26放斷支
再加5支小斷支
10/27 NO2爆紅加消化菌
閒閒沒事測一下,一測天阿爆紅,在加新活石前有測是0,想說沒問題不知為什麼會這樣,想說KZ沒用了所以加希爾XX 消化菌停打蛋白
10/30換水
下午再測量NO2一樣爆紅, 一氣之下大換2桶水加上搬出舊濾材(伊罕石英球跟珊瑚骨)
10/31
早上起床還沒刷牙馬上測 NO2已經降了橘黃色橘色很淡了(試管接近黃色)
長篇大論敘述已完畢,以下有幾個疑點待有空的大大指教
1.我是否已經算倒缸
2.是否問題是因為沒使用S.P而使用FOOD
3.有使用沸石桶何來NO2?
4.從10/26~到現在5支小斷支還會發毛(參考之)
5.我的缸壁和活石尤其是活石長了非常非常咖啡色的東西感覺很厚
6.最後NO2有降應該是換水還是舊濾材的原因
7.如果需要砍掉重練該怎麼作
以上
謝謝
用food也可以，重點是您是用怎樣的劑量開缸的?
是使用14天開缸法嗎?
活石上面會有相當多的汙染 如果沒有妥善處理 會造成NO2爆紅是可以想見的結果
這樣操作震盪太大囉...鳥巢雖然不是多難飼養的品種但是需要相對"穩定"的水質
我不認為NO2爆紅是什麼壞事 給他時間自然會降下來
反而是您的操作太過劇烈
不算 你的斷肢還活著不是?
不是 因為我也是使用food的開缸 重點還是請您描述您如何開缸 用什麼樣的頻率跟劑量添加KZ產品
海水當中沸石吸收氨的功用有限，在KZ系統當中我個人認為是培菌用途較多
當你活石有過多髒污的時候細菌處理來不及當然會有NO2
有NO2表示你的細菌有在工作 莫急莫慌莫害怕
拍照來看看吧 可能是菌膜或是褐藻
天曉得 你做了太多操作了
真的想要砍掉重練可以請教就近使用KZ的魚友
不過我個人覺得事情沒這麼嚴重
